HOW TO PREPARE AMBUR BIRIYANI RECIPIE
Ambur in Tamilnadu has more biryani hotels per capita than any other city in the world. What makes Ambur mutton biryani what it is? The legend has it that the mutton biryani was introduced to the Arcot royals through their connection with the Hyderabadi Nizams. Sir Hassan Baig, a cook himself for the Nawab at the Royal palace of Arcot made this biryani regularly for the royals. Later in the years, his son Kurshid Baig started to spread the delicacy by selling this biryani over a bicycle. That’s how the famous Star Briyani hotel was born. Note that they spell it as BRIYANI and not Biryani. They have been doing this since 1890. Star Briyani recipe has become a tradition that is continuing now for 4 generations. I have adapted this recipe based on a lot of information gathered from videos and articles featuring Mr.Ahmed and Chef Barkathullah of Star Briyani Hotel in Ambur.
What makes Ambur Briyani (Biryani) unique?
Mr.Ahmed says there are two ingredients Green Chillies and Ghee, that shouldnever be used for Ambur mutton biryani. Seeraga Samba rice is the only traditional rice used for making this Ambur mutton biryani. All the masalas are hand ground using a grindstone called ammi அம்மி for Ambur mutton biryani. They use only wood fire to cook this Ambur mutton biryani and they use DUM method of cooking. Lastly “Kai Pakkuvam” or the “gift of hand from the god”. The chefs at Star Hotel are all followers of Islam and according to their belief, “அடை மழை பெய்யும் பொழுதும் கூட சமையல் செய்தார்கள் எனின் பற்ற வைக்கும் நெருப்பு அணையாது – அது அவர்களுக்கு கடவுள் தந்த வரம்.”. “Even during a very heavy rain, the fire started by the chef will not fade away. Such is the gift they possess with their hands blessed from god.”
He says Ambur mutton biryani is very light on the stomach. Its easily digestible when compared to the other masala laden and fat laden mutton biryani. Here is how to do an awesome Ambur mutton biryani adapted to be made in a home kitchen.
Mr.Ahmed says there are two ingredients Green Chillies and Ghee, that shouldnever be used for Ambur mutton biryani. Seeraga Samba rice is the only traditional rice used for making this Ambur mutton biryani. All the masalas are hand ground using a grindstone called ammi அம்மி for Ambur mutton biryani. They use only wood fire to cook this Ambur mutton biryani and they use DUM method of cooking. Lastly “Kai Pakkuvam” or the “gift of hand from the god”. The chefs at Star Hotel are all followers of Islam and according to their belief, “அடை மழை பெய்யும் பொழுதும் கூட சமையல் செய்தார்கள் எனின் பற்ற வைக்கும் நெருப்பு அணையாது – அது அவர்களுக்கு கடவுள் தந்த வரம்.”. “Even during a very heavy rain, the fire started by the chef will not fade away. Such is the gift they possess with their hands blessed from god.”
He says Ambur mutton biryani is very light on the stomach. Its easily digestible when compared to the other masala laden and fat laden mutton biryani. Here is how to do an awesome Ambur mutton biryani adapted to be made in a home kitchen.
We need to make 3 pastes. Garlic paste, ginger paste and chilli paste. Grind all the ingredients in a blender/ mixie separately to a very smooth paste. Add very little water while grinding. Set aside. Here are the other things that you will need for making the mutton gravy for the mutton biryani.
Soak the rice in lots of water. Set aside.
Heat oil in a pan and add a table spoon of curd. The reason for adding little curd in the oil while making this mutton biryani is that it takes away the imperfections if any in the oil. Who am I to question this age old tradition that they have been following since 1890. So add a tablespoon of curd to the oil. Add in the Cinnamon, cloves and cardamom. Fry for 10 seconds. Add in the garlic paste. Fry for 2-3 minutes on medium flame. The ginger and garlic are added separately as garlic takes more time to fry. Ambur people feel that the flavor of the mutton biryani comes from the ginger and for that to happen, garlic should be fried well. Otherwise garlic will overpower the ginger.
Now, add in the ginger paste. Fry for 2-3 minutes until the raw smell of the ginger goes off.
Add in the chilli paste, mutton, the mint and coriander leaves, chopped onions, tomatoes, sea salt, curd and lime juice. Add in a cup (250 ml) of water. Mix well to combine.
Cover and pressure cook everything for 10-12 whistles on medium flame. Switch off the flame and wait for the pressure to release naturally.
Bring a pot of water to a boil and add in the soaked rice. Add in the salt. Cook until the rice is half done. Its very difficult for me to give a time frame as the rice cooks differently according to the age of rice, amount of water added etc…The gauge for the texture of the rice for mutton biryani is that the rice at this stage should not be fully cooked. The center of the rice kernel should be still dry and raw.Drain the water and add the rice to the mutton pan. Mix well to combine. Now its ready for dum.
Traditionally, dum is done using charcoal. But that’s not feasible at home. The substitute for dum cooking at home is to use an oven. Place the mutton biryani pan / vessel in a preheated 400 degree Fahrenheit oven for 30 minutes. If you don’t have an oven, heat a dosa pan on the stove and put the mutton biryani pan / vessel on top of the dosa pan and allow it to cook on low flame for 15 minutes. Put the whistle also along if you want the rice to be very soft. If you are putting the whistle, then do the dum only for 10 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally.Once the dum cooking is over, open the lid and gently fluff up the rice to mix. Serve mutton biryani hot with raita.
